Technical guide

Cosmetic science glossary: the technical terms behind every product

Plain-language definitions of the formulation, testing, clinical and regulatory terms Guires CSL scientists use. Each term has its own page with the standard or regulation behind it and where we put it into practice.

References

  1. Regulation Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 30 November 2009 on cosmetic products. OJ L 342, 22.12.2009, p. 59 (consolidated version 1 May 2026). eur-lex.europa.eu
  2. Regulation Commission Implementing Decision (EU) 2022/677 of 31 March 2022 on the glossary of common ingredient names for use in the labelling of cosmetic products (repeals Decision (EU) 2019/701). eur-lex.europa.eu
  3. Regulation Commission Regulation (EU) 2024/996 of 3 April 2024 amending Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 as regards the use of Vitamin A, Alpha-Arbutin and Arbutin and certain substances with potential endocrine disrupting properties in cosmetic products. eur-lex.europa.eu
  4. Regulation Commission Recommendation 2006/647/EC of 22 September 2006 on the efficacy of sunscreen products and the claims made relating thereto. OJ L 265, 26.9.2006, p. 39. eur-lex.europa.eu
  5. Regulation US Code of Federal Regulations, 21 CFR 201.327: Over-the-counter sunscreen drug products; required labeling based on effectiveness testing. www.ecfr.gov
  6. Regulation Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety. SCCS Notes of Guidance for the Testing of Cosmetic Ingredients and their Safety Evaluation, 12th revision (SCCS/1647/22), 2023. health.ec.europa.eu
  7. Regulation Commission Regulation (EU) 2025/877 of 12 May 2025 amending Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 as regards the use in cosmetic products of certain substances classified as carcinogenic, mutagenic or toxic for reproduction (Omnibus VII). eur-lex.europa.eu
  8. Regulation U.S. Food and Drug Administration. Modernization of Cosmetics Regulation Act of 2022 (MoCRA). www.fda.gov
  9. Standard Personal Care Products Council. International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook / wINCI web-based ingredient dictionary. www.personalcarecouncil.org
  10. Standard ISO 16128-1:2016. Guidelines on technical definitions and criteria for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products — Part 1: Definitions for ingredients. www.iso.org
  11. Standard ISO 16128-2:2017 (Amd 1:2022). Cosmetics — Guidelines on technical definitions and criteria for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients — Part 2: Criteria for ingredients and products. www.iso.org
  12. Standard ISO/TR 18811:2018. Cosmetics — Guidelines on the stability testing of cosmetic products. www.iso.org
  13. Standard ISO 11930:2019 (Amd 1:2022). Cosmetics — Microbiology — Evaluation of the antimicrobial protection of a cosmetic product. www.iso.org
  14. Standard OECD (2025). Test No. 439: In Vitro Skin Irritation: Reconstructed Human Epidermis Test Method. OECD Guidelines for the Testing of Chemicals, Section 4. OECD Publishing, Paris. doi.org
  15. Standard OECD (2026). Test No. 442C: In Chemico Skin Sensitisation. OECD Guidelines for the Testing of Chemicals, Section 4. doi.org
  16. Standard OECD (2026). Test No. 442D: In Vitro Skin Sensitisation: ARE-Nrf2 Luciferase Test Methods. OECD Guidelines for the Testing of Chemicals, Section 4. doi.org
  17. Standard OECD (2026). Test No. 442E: In Vitro Skin Sensitisation: assays addressing the key event on activation of dendritic cells. OECD Guidelines for the Testing of Chemicals, Section 4. doi.org
  18. Standard ISO 24444:2019 (Amd 1:2022). Cosmetics — Sun protection test methods — In vivo determination of the sun protection factor (SPF). www.iso.org
  19. Standard ISO 23675:2024. Cosmetics — Sun protection test methods — In vitro determination of sun protection factor (SPF). www.iso.org
  20. Standard ISO 23698:2024. Cosmetics — Measurement of the sunscreen efficacy by diffuse reflectance spectroscopy. www.iso.org
  21. Standard ISO 24443:2021 (Amd 1:2026). Cosmetics — Determination of sunscreen UVA photoprotection in vitro. www.iso.org
  22. Standard ISO 24442:2022. Cosmetics — Sun protection test methods — In vivo determination of sunscreen UVA protection. www.iso.org
  23. Standard ISO 22716:2007. Cosmetics — Good Manufacturing Practices (GMP) — Guidelines on Good Manufacturing Practices. www.iso.org
  24. Peer-reviewed Lambers H, Piessens S, Bloem A, Pronk H, Finkel P. Natural skin surface pH is on average below 5, which is beneficial for its resident flora. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2006;28(5):359-370. pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  25. Peer-reviewed Kornhauser A, Coelho SG, Hearing VJ. Applications of hydroxy acids: classification, mechanisms, and photoactivity. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2010;3:135-142. pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  26. Peer-reviewed Tadros T. Application of rheology for assessment and prediction of the long-term physical stability of emulsions. Adv Colloid Interface Sci. 2004;108-109:227-258. pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  27. Peer-reviewed Purnamawati S, Indrastuti N, Danarti R, Saefudin T. The role of moisturizers in addressing various kinds of dermatitis: a review. Clin Med Res. 2017;15(3-4):75-87. pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  28. Peer-reviewed Ananthapadmanabhan KP, Moore DJ, Subramanyan K, Misra M, Meyer F. Cleansing without compromise: the impact of cleansers on the skin barrier and the technology of mild cleansing. Dermatol Ther. 2004;17 Suppl 1:16-25. pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  29. Peer-reviewed Seweryn A. Interactions between surfactants and the skin – theory and practice. Adv Colloid Interface Sci. 2018;256:242-255. pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  30. Peer-reviewed Mukherjee S, Date A, Patravale V, Korting HC, Roeder A, Weindl G. Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clin Interv Aging. 2006;1(4):327-348. pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  31. Peer-reviewed Gorouhi F, Maibach HI. Role of topical peptides in preventing or treating aged skin. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2009;31(5):327-345. pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  32. Peer-reviewed Politano VT, Api AM. The Research Institute for Fragrance Materials’ human repeated insult patch test protocol. Regul Toxicol Pharmacol. 2008;52(1):35-38. pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  33. Peer-reviewed Rogiers V; EEMCO Group. EEMCO guidance for the assessment of transepidermal water loss in cosmetic sciences. Skin Pharmacol Appl Skin Physiol. 2001;14(2):117-128. pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  34. Peer-reviewed Berardesca E; EEMCO. EEMCO guidance for the assessment of stratum corneum hydration: electrical methods. Skin Res Technol. 1997;3(2):126-132. pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  35. Peer-reviewed Berardesca E, et al. The revised EEMCO guidance for the in vivo measurement of water in the skin. Skin Res Technol. 2018. pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  36. Peer-reviewed Pouradier F, et al. Performance assessment of the Double Plate method (ISO 23675) in ALT-SPF Consortium: a highly reproducible and accurate in vitro method to determine SPF. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2025. pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov

Regulations and standards are listed first, then peer-reviewed literature. Sources checked October 2026.

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