Glossary · Actives

AHAs and BHA

What it means

Alpha hydroxy acids such as glycolic and lactic acid are water-soluble exfoliants that loosen dead surface cells; the beta hydroxy acid salicylic acid is oil-soluble and works inside pores. Effect and irritation both depend on concentration and pH, and salicylic acid has concentration limits in EU Annexes III and V.

Sources: 12

Why it matters

The right active at the right level and pH is what makes a claim credible; Guires CSL scientists choose actives on published evidence and check every level against the rules of your target markets.

How Guires CSL applies it

Guires CSL formulation, testing, clinical and regulatory teams work with AHAs and BHA on client projects every week, from the first brief to the final product file.

Glycolic acid evidence

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Short chains of amino acids used as cosmetic actives, such as signal peptides that target the look of fine lines.

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References

  1. Regulation Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 30 November 2009 on cosmetic products. OJ L 342, 22.12.2009, p. 59 (consolidated version 1 May 2026). eur-lex.europa.eu
  2. Peer-reviewed Kornhauser A, Coelho SG, Hearing VJ. Applications of hydroxy acids: classification, mechanisms, and photoactivity. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2010;3:135-142. pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov

Regulations and standards are listed first, then peer-reviewed literature. Sources checked October 2026.

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