CSL hair and scalp care product development: shampoo, conditioner and scalp serum

Sector · Hair & scalp care

Hair and scalp care, backed by evidence.

Hair care now starts at the scalp. CSL formulation scientists develop shampoos, conditioners, scalp serums and treatments that perform on the hair, respect the scalp and carry claims that hold up, and the formula is yours.

Start a project The science we formulate for

Guires Cosmetic Science Lab

Hair Care Formulations from Guires CSL

At Guires Cosmetic Science Lab, CSL formulation chemists develop hair care formulations, from shampoo formulation, including sulphate-free shampoo, to conditioners, masks and scalp serums, with claims proven by phototrichogram, combing and breakage testing. With more than 10 years of experience in hair care formulation, the team has developed products that improve the physical properties of the hair fibre, such as texture, strength and combability, using an evidence-based approach.

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What shoppers look for now

01Scalp-first

People now treat the scalp as skin. They look for soothing, balancing and barrier-friendly formulas, not just clean hair.

02Visible proof

Less shedding, less frizz, fewer flakes. Shoppers expect a result they can see, and retailers expect data to back it.

03Scent that lasts

Fragrance is one of the strongest reasons people pick a shampoo, and they want it to bloom in the lather and stay on dry hair.

The science

The hair and scalp biology we formulate for.

Most hair care briefs come down to three things: a comfortable, balanced scalp, fuller-looking hair and a fibre that resists damage. We plan actives, base and evidence for each.

CSL scalp health science: magnified view of the scalp microbiome, hair follicles and botanical actives along a hair parting

Scalp health & microbiome

A balanced scalp, fewer flakes.

The scalp is skin with more oil glands and a denser microbial community. When the balance tips, flaking, itch and oiliness follow. We build cleansing and leave-on products that calm the scalp and support its own flora.

Ingredients CSL scientists work with

Piroctone olamineSalicylic acidZinc PCANiacinamidePrebiotic sugarsPostbiotic fermentsMenthol & cooling agents

How CSL proves it works

  • Flake scoringExpert grading of loose and adherent flakes over 2–4 weeks
  • SebumeterScalp oil levels at set hours after washing
  • Scalp swabsMicrobiome sequencing before and after use
  • Scalp TEWLBarrier function of the scalp skin
Published evidenceDavis 2021 · scalp healthReygagne 2017 · scalp microbiome
CSL hair density science: illustrative before and after of a thinning parting and fuller-looking hair, with follicle cross-sections
Illustrative image, not a study result

Hair fall & density

Fuller-looking hair, worded correctly.

Thinning and shedding are among the most emotional hair concerns. Cosmetic products can reduce breakage and shedding and make hair look denser; regrowth claims belong to medicines. We formulate topical serums and shampoos, and nutricosmetic supplements, within those lines.

Ingredients CSL scientists work with

CaffeineRosemary extractBiomimetic peptidesPlant-derived complexesPiroctone olamineMarine proteins (oral)Botanical oils (oral)

How CSL proves it works

  • PhototrichogramHair count and growth-phase ratio over 12–24 weeks
  • Combing countHairs shed in a standard combing test
  • Global photographyExpert-graded density from standard images
Published evidenceDhurat 2017 · caffeinePanahi 2015 · rosemary oilAblon 2015 · marine protein
CSL hair fibre repair science: illustrative before and after of damaged, frizzy hair and smooth, glossy hair with magnified cuticle
Illustrative image, not a study result

Fibre repair & protection

Stronger strands, smoother finish.

Heat, colour, bleaching and daily brushing break down the hair fibre and its protective surface. Repair products rebuild strength and slip, and protectors limit the next round of damage. Curly, coily and colour-treated hair each need their own approach.

Ingredients CSL scientists work with

Bond-building activesPlant proteins & amino acidsCeramides & lipidsCationic guar & polyquaterniumsSilicone alternativesCoconut & argan oilsUV & colour protectants

How CSL proves it works

  • Tensile & breakage testingFibre strength and break rate on treated tresses
  • Combing forceWet and dry detangling on an instrument
  • Frizz & shine imagingImage analysis of tresses in humidity
  • Colour fadeSpectrophotometer readings over wash cycles

Talk to a CSL formulation scientist

Have a hair care idea? Book a 30-minute brief review.

Tell us the hair type, the concern and the markets. A CSL hair care formulation scientist will tell you what is feasible, which claims it can carry and how to prove them.

Book a brief review

Clinical evidence

What the published trials show.

Peer-reviewed human trials on actives and approaches we use in hair and scalp care. Some compare against medicines such as minoxidil; we use those only as benchmarks, never as cosmetic ingredients.

Randomised controlled trialHair shedding · scalp health

Piroctone olamine shampoo and leave-on vs placebo

Randomised, double-blind, placebo-controlled · 144 women with self-perceived thinning · 8 weeks

Significant increase in hair amount vs placebo on phototrichogram; the shampoo also lowered scalp oxidative-stress markers and TEWL.

Davis MG et al. Int J Cosmet Sci 2021;43(Suppl 1):S26–S33 · PMID 34424549

Randomised controlled trialHair density · caffeine

0.2% caffeine liquid vs 5% minoxidil

Randomised, open-label, multicentre non-inferiority · 210 men · 6 months

Proportion of hairs in the growth phase rose 10.6% with caffeine vs 11.7% with minoxidil, meeting the non-inferiority margin.

Minoxidil is a medicine; it appears here only as the comparator.

Dhurat R et al. Skin Pharmacol Physiol 2017;30(6):298–305 · PMID 29055953

Randomised controlled trialHair density · rosemary oil

Rosemary oil vs 2% minoxidil

Randomised comparative trial · 100 men · 6 months

Hair count rose significantly in both groups with no difference between them; scalp itching was less frequent with rosemary.

Active-comparator trial, not placebo-controlled.

Panahi Y et al. Skinmed 2015;13(1):15–21 · PMID 25842469

Randomised controlled trialDandruff · scalp microbiome

Oral Lactobacillus paracasei ST11 vs placebo

Randomised, placebo-controlled · 60 men with moderate–severe dandruff · 56 days

Loose and adherent flakes, redness and overall clinical score improved significantly vs placebo, with a rebalanced scalp microbiota.

Oral supplement (nutricosmetic).

Reygagne P et al. Benef Microbes 2017;8(5):671–680 · PMID 28789559

Randomised controlled trialThinning hair · marine protein

Oral marine-protein supplement vs placebo

Randomised, double-blind, placebo-controlled · 60 women · 90 days

Terminal hair count increased significantly vs placebo (P<0.0001), with less shedding and better self-assessed quality of life.

Oral supplement (nutricosmetic).

Ablon G. Dermatol Res Pract 2015;2015:841570 · PMID 25883641

These are published studies on ingredients, methods and routines, not on products we have made. A finished product needs its own testing before a claim goes on pack, and we design that study with you. See the full evidence library

Sensorial experience

A wash people look forward to.

Washing hair has become part of self-care. Lather, slip, scent and the feel of dry hair decide whether someone buys the bottle again.

Lather without harshness

Sulphate-free, amino-acid and glucoside systems that still foam richly and rinse clean.

Mild surfactantsFoam testing

Slip and detangling

Conditioners tuned for wet combing, fast rinse and a soft, weightless dry feel.

Combing forceSensory panels

Fragrance that blooms and lasts

Scents developed with fragrance-house partners to open in the lather and stay on dry hair, within IFRA limits.

IFRAScent longevity

Textured and curly hair

Definition, moisture and frizz control for curls and coils, tested on the hair types they are made for.

Curl definitionHumidity testing

Every moment of use

Designed for the whole routine.

We test how a product behaves at each step, not only the result at the end.

  1. 01Shelf and pack

    Name, pack and claim that are clear in a crowded aisle

  2. 02Pour

    Viscosity that pours cleanly from the pack

  3. 03Lather

    Flash foam, creaminess and scent release

  4. 04Rinse

    Fast rinse with no heavy or squeaky feel

  5. 05Condition and comb

    Slip and detangling on wet hair

  6. 06Dry and style

    Softness, volume or definition as hair dries

  7. 07Day two

    Freshness, scent and oil control the next day

Concept spotlight

Ideas we can take from bench to shelf.

Example concepts to show the range. Every project starts from your own brief, and the finished formula belongs to you.

Pre-wash scalp balancing serum: product concept by Guires CSL
Scalp · Microbiome

Pre-wash scalp balancing serum

A light serum applied before shampooing to calm an oily or flaky scalp, with a cooling finish.

Bond-repair rinse-out mask: product concept by Guires CSL
Repair · Colour-treated

Bond-repair rinse-out mask

A five-minute mask for bleached or heat-styled hair that restores strength and slip.

Low-foam curl cleansing cream: product concept by Guires CSL
Textured hair · Sulphate-free

Low-foam curl cleansing cream

A cream cleanser that washes curls and coils without stripping, followed by easy detangling.

Responsible beauty

Performance and sustainability, together.

Brands no longer have to choose between a product that works and one that is kinder to the planet. We design for both from the start.

Our supplier directory

Biodegradable conditioning

Silicone alternatives and readily biodegradable conditioning polymers, checked against OECD 301 data from suppliers.

OECD 301

Solid and concentrated formats

Shampoo and conditioner bars, powders and concentrates that cut water and packaging.

Waterless formats

Upcycled and bio-based actives

Scalp and hair actives made from plant side-streams and fermentation, sourced through our supplier directory.

Supplier directory

Natural-origin measured properly

Natural and natural-origin content calculated under ISO 16128, and COSMOS-ready formulas where you need them.

ISO 16128COSMOS

Honest green claims

Environmental wording reviewed against green-claims guidance in each target market.

Claims review
Cosmetic or drug?

Anti-dandruff and hair-loss claims sit on the line between cosmetic and medicine. In the US, a dandruff claim makes a shampoo an OTC drug with a fixed list of actives; in most markets, claims to regrow hair or treat alopecia are medicinal. We word claims such as "reduces hair fall due to breakage" or "visibly fewer flakes" for each market.

From trend to brief

Start with insight, not guesswork.

Before formulation begins, we can map your market so the product lands with a clear point of difference.

Market and shelf scanWhat competitors in your channel already claim, and where the gaps are
Ingredient watchScalp and hair actives gaining evidence, and those facing restrictions in your markets
Claim feasibilityWhich claims your budget and timeline can support, from tress tests to panel studies
Brief you can build onA one-page product brief with formats, actives, claims and target markets

Formats

What we develop in hair & scalp care.

ShampoosConditionersHair masksLeave-in treatmentsScalp serumsHair oilsStyling creams & gelsDry shampoo

Testing & compliance

The evidence hair & scalp care needs.

Eye irritationOECD TG 492
Combing & breakageInstrumental hair testing
Scalp toleranceDermatologist-assessed in-use
Challenge testISO 11930
EfficacyPhototrichogram, flake grading, frizz imaging

Applications

Common hair & scalp care goals.

Hair fall & hair growthThinning, breakage, densityDandruff & scalp healthFlakes, itch, scalp balanceMicrobiome-friendlyPre-, pro- and postbiotic careSensitive skin & rednessCalming, low-irritation formulas

Services

How we help.

Product formulationNew products, reformulation, benchmark matchingPrototyping & product developmentSamples, sensory, fragrance, packagingSafety & stability testingISO and OECD methods, safety reportsClaims & clinical trial supportClaim mapping, patch tests, efficacy studies

Market insights from Guires CSL scientists

Stay ahead in hair & scalp care with regulation updates, the latest research, ingredient spotlights, recalls and market trends, written by the Guires CSL formulation, testing, clinical and regulatory teams.

Explore market insights
Guires CSL scientists reviewing cosmetic market research and regulatory updates

FAQ

Hair & scalp care questions.

Can you develop an anti-dandruff shampoo for the US and EU?

Yes, but usually as two variants. In the US a dandruff claim makes it an OTC drug with a permitted active, while in the EU it is a cosmetic and zinc pyrithione is no longer allowed. We plan the active and claims for each market from the start.

Can a cosmetic claim to stop hair loss?

Not in most markets. Cosmetics can claim to reduce hair fall due to breakage, reduce shedding or give denser-looking hair. Claims to regrow hair or treat alopecia make the product a medicine.

Can you develop hair supplements as well as topical products?

Yes. Through our group we develop nutricosmetic supplements, such as marine protein or botanical formulas, alongside topical products, each with the right regulatory route.

How do you prove a hair repair claim?

We start with instrumental tests on hair tresses (tensile strength, breakage, combing force, frizz imaging) and then confirm the result in an in-use study on consumers.

Who owns the hair care formula?

You do. We sign an NDA before you share your brief, and the formula and technical file are handed over at the end of the project.

Guires CSL quality, compliance and safety

Every hair & scalp care project at Guires CSL runs inside an ISO 9001 certified quality system, with documented methods, calibrated instruments, traceable raw materials and reviewed reports, so the results behind your product can be checked and defended.

Guires CSL quality & accreditations
Guires CSL analyst checking cosmetic samples under a microscope

In their words

What clients say.

“Refinements to our shampoo’s surfactant system, viscosity and sensory profile struck the right balance between cleansing performance and scalp comfort.”
Marcus EvansR&D Formulation Manager · UK
“Relevant testing endpoints for hair strength, appearance and overall performance gave our product positioning stronger evidence.”
Aisha RahmanProduct Development Lead · UAE
“Working through ingredient compatibility and formulation optimisation improved both stability and conditioning performance, giving us a more consistent finished product.”
Liam ChenHead of Innovation · Canada

Insights

Related reading.

Guidance from our formulation, testing and regulatory teams on the topics this page covers.

All insights

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Create your next product with CSL.

Our formulation chemists, testing scientists and regulatory specialists work alongside your team, from the first brief to a market-ready product. Bring a brief, a benchmark or just an idea: a scientist will reply within one working day with next steps and an indicative scope.

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